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Camino Day 12: Ferreiros to Portomarín

Updated: Nov 27, 2023

Day 12 Ferreiros to Portomarín (9km over 3.5 hours)

We stayed at a great Albuergue last night Cruz Cruceiro and got a good nights rest. We started out early and had the coolest weather yet. We had planned a short day to follow yesterday’s longer route. We passed through small hamlets and little restaurants, and passed the 100km mark to Santiago.

We made it to Portomarín, a town that had to be rebuilt in the 1962 to protect it from rising river levels and flooding.


A new dam was built above its original Roman bridge to help ease the flow of water in and out of the city's lake. Asha rang the liberty bell that is meant to be a symbol of freedom of religion and from worldly stresses while walking the Camino.

We walked through the streets and saw the the San Nicolas cathedral, built in the 12th century, and learned it was relocated brick by brick to higher ground in the new plaza. The bricks of the cathedral had to be numbered so they could be placed back in their original position at the new site. You can still see the numbers on the bricks today marking their original places! We loved the art around the city and took in the warm pilgrim welcome.


We're staying at Aubergue Casa Do Mlarabillas in Portomarín, a great aubuerge up the hill, and owned by Pedro and his girlfriend. When he asked us where we live in the US, he surprised us with his response, "Batimore?! I know Baltimore from the Wire TV show." We had a good laugh together :) We all felt great today and are looking ahead to the rest of the Camino!


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