Day 1: Parenzana Trail to Grožnjan, Croatia
We arrived in Croatia at night around 8pm and luckily secured the last parking spot at the Lighthouse camp site in Umag on the Istrian peninsula. We drove in at night so didn’t see our surroundings but we knew we were on the coast. We made dinner, hooked everything up, showered and went straight to bed. When we woke up, we were excited to get outside and see the Adriatic Sea. We saw blue as far they eye could see and the Faro Di Salvore lighthouse built in 1818, which is the oldest and furthest northern lighthouse in the Adriatic and still in use. We are learning so much about this new area of the world to us. The geography, and the history are fascinating. We are learning that Croatia has had several influences since it’s 7th century founding –the Romans, the Ottomans, the Austria-Hungarians, the Venetians and the Croatians, and following the war in Yugoslavia which led to it's formation.
My favorite New York Times travel article featured the Parenzana bike trail. I knew upon reading it that we had to check it out as it offered beautiful views of the Istrian coastline and small towns along the way. This trail was used as a narrow railroad from 1902 to 1935 connecting 33 small villages from Trieste, Italy to Poreč, Croatia. Today it has become popular among walkers and cyclists and I love how it blends history with nature. We originally thought we’d bike the Parenzana and Eurovelo 8 trails from Trieste, Italy to Athens, Greece but the logistics of cycling with our bags, reserving the huts, or the high tour price made us rethink. Instead, we opted to rent the RV and have bought used bikes to do day trips along the Istrian coast. We found the Parenzana and did a short 10km ride out to Grožnjan. We noted immediately that it is not paved, but rocky gravel. Asha and I have mountain bikes so were ok but it took some getting used to. Nishant has a touring bike but was luckily, unscathed.
The views were spectacular as we approached this small city that has found new life by artists setting up studios in its abandoned homes. We circled the town on it’s cobblestone streets in about 35 minutes! We stopped for a quick bite to eat and were treated to the most amazing view of green rolling hills and vineyards. We are so grateful that the only mishap was my flat tire as we reached RV camp!
Day 2: Poreč and Pula
We drove to the small town of Porec today, located on the west coast and set beside the stunning Adriatic Sea. We first stopped and found a bike repair shop and got a quick lesson on fixing a flat tire from a very kind, yet hurried bike staffer. Tomorrow is the Porec Iron Man Triathlon and the store was getting inundated with last minute repairs for nervous competitors.
We set off to the old city and strolled down the town’s main street, Dakamanus, built by the Romans and lined with cafés, candy shops, clothing, art and souvenir shops. We enjoyed biking along the Adriatic and seeing the gorgeous views of the water and locals visiting with one another.
On our way to our campsite we drove through Pula and saw the famous Roman arena in the center of the city. It's more preserved than the Roman Colosseum. We weren't able to stay more than a few minutes as parking was limited and you can't really squeeze in anywhere when you're an RV :).
We checked into our RV site, Arena Stoja Campsite, and are one of about 60 RVs staying on site. It is busy but no overcrowded and everyone is enjoying the views off the rocks. We ventured into the water in the evening, which was crystal clear blue green and lined with rocks. It definitely was refreshing and none of us could convince one another to go completely in! We stuck around for sunset then biked the short distance back to the RV for dinner and showers.
Day 3: Plitvice Lakes National Park
Plitvice Lakes National park is one of Croatia’s most beautiful and oldest national parks and known for its picturesque lakes, caves and waterfalls. It is a UNESCO’s World Heritage site due to its stunning natural landscapes and diversity. Today we hiked Program C, an 8km hike that winds around the Upper and Lower Lakes and waterfalls, and includes a boat ride and shuttle to see all 16 lakes in the park.
The start of hike was stunning as we descended the paved walkway. You could see the lakes below and the turning of the fall colors. It was amazing! As we continued on our hike, each turn and subsequent trail revealed even more beautiful views! We could not believe the combination of pristine clear, emerald, green blue waters and beautiful shades of red, orange, green leaves. The waterfalls were something out of a story book! We finished our hike and returned back to camp feeling very grateful for all we had seen today.
We had some lunch and then it was time to check out another park that we had passed on the way in – Adrenaline Park! There was a big sign for zip line and giant swing on the way in to our camp site and Asha convinced us it was a must-do family activity. The zip line passes over the canyon of the river Korana, is 300m and one can achieve up to 70km per hour! We were in. We each suited up and went for a ride. The first step off the tower felt like a total drop but then a second later, we were flying through the air. It was pretty thrilling and we have no regrets! We all survived and enjoyed ourselves.
Next Asha tried the giant swing which also involved a drop from 12m. Yes, she was only brave one to try this out. I’ll never forget her courage in waiting for the drop and her reaction. We had a great time this afternoon that got us out of our comfort zones. We were ready for a relaxing evening back at camp. We did laundry, cooked dinner and sat outside admiring the sky full of stars.
Today and yesterday we have been taking stock of our travel experiences and realizing we need to slow it down, and seek out opportunities to meet families with kiddos. By no means are we complaining at all, because we know what we are doing is a privilege, but the planning and moving to a new place has caught up with us. We are exhausted. Moving to a new place each day or every few days allows us to explore and experience a lot, but it’s also tiring, feels a bit disorienting and doesn’t lend itself to spending quiet time together or meet other travelers. Meeting other people was such a rich part of our Camino experience and we are missing it.
Coincidentally as we were taking stock, we met another family tonight who is traveling for year (currently in month 6) from the UK with a 9 yr. old daughter and it has been so helpful to share our experiences with one another. We met in the lobby of our RV camp, and invited them over for wine and playground time for the girls. They have been our Camino Angels helping us steer ourselves in the direction that we were getting to but had not arrived just yet. We are going to slow down a bit.
Day 4: Zagreb and Graffiti Street Art tour
We got on the road early this morning to make the 3 hour drive to Zagreb, Croatia’s 900 yr. old capital, and largest city, to make our 10am Graffiti /Street art tour. We were drawn to this tour as it was to be given by one of Zagreb’s local artists known as one of the trailblazers for grafitti art in Zagreb, and we thought it’d be a great to learn about the city and the local art scene.
First things first, we needed breakfast. Our guide took us to a local bakery to try “burec” a Turkish multilayered pastry with fresh cheese inside (think spanakopita without the spinach). It was delicious! While eating in the main plaza, we noticed the military walking through with their horses doing an exercise. Our tour guide pointed out that they were wearing red ties which are traditional uniform originating during the Napoleonic Wars with the purpose of using them as tourniquets on the battlefield. Over time, these ties evolved to play a more fashionable role in Europe. Croatia is the inventor of the tie, not to mention the writing pen!
We are so grateful we had this opportunity to get to know Kresimir (check out his Instagram @leon_gsk and website www.leongsk.com). He shared his family’s story in Croatia, the changes in all aspects in life following the breakup of Yugoslavia, the city’s Turkish influences and Austrian – Hungarian roots, all in the context of street art. He explained that Zagreb was the first city in Eastern Europe to have a grafitti seen in the 90s. He walked us through the old town, new town infusing new meaning into the otherwise seemingly innocuous writing and stickers throughout the city. We visited his art studio and Asha got to try out creating art with spray paint.
We had a filling lunch at a local vegetarian restaurant, and we were off the Chocolate Museum, yes please! We learned all about the history of cocoa beans, their value in the early civilizations of the Aztecs and Mayans– they were used as currency (as yes, there were counterfeits!) – and a how the process of making chocolates has evolved from these civilizations, in Europe and the US. There was an amazing video that showed the complete process from cocoa pod to chocolate bar and the hard work that it takes from farmers who produce it. The fun part of the tour was that were a tasting that was paired with each part of the exhibit. We also liked seeing the film presenting the full process of how chocolate is created – from harvesting to the packaging and everything in between. It was a well spent hour of discovery and dessert!
Day 5 Zadar
We visited Zadar today located on the Dalmatian coast. We only had a few hours so we found a parking spot just outside the main city and rode the bikes into the town known for its Roman ruins and Venetian gates in the city walls.
We had the best weather and enjoyed riding along the Adriatic coast to our restaurant for lunch. We’ve been able to find plenty of veggie restaurants while traveling. After lunch we continued our ride and passed through the ruins of the 11th century Roman forum. Not too far away we found modern architectural projects: the Sea Organ and Sun salutation. The Sea Organ installed in 2005 is a a sound art project that plays music by way of the sea waves moving air through polyethelene tubes under marble steps. The sounds were whale-like and captivating as we dipped our feet into the cool waves of the Adriatic.
Next, we rode around the Sun Salutation art installation comprised of 300 multi layered glass plates in the form of a solar system. The sun is a 22 meter diameter circle with solar powered lights that turn on at night. We saw it during the day and loved the idea. It would be amazing to see at night. We made our way to our next camping site, Camping Split where we’ll be for the next few days as we explore a new city.
Day 6 Camp Split beach day
We made it to Camp Split and realized we just needed to time for rest. The sun was out and the temps were going to reach high 70s so we ran out to the beach and plopped for the morning and afternoon. It was glorious. We ventured into the Adriatic and swam and floated. It was chilly but warm enough in the sun. We built castles and played in the gravel and sand and just rested. We will stay here for a few days to regroup and just be together.
After several hours at the beach, we were ready to explore a bit more. We took an 8km bike ride around our camp site and to Split and back and were so happy to ride along the Eurovelo 8 bicycle route into Split, the bike route we had originally planned to cycle down to Greece. The logistics didn’t work out to do that but we were happy to ride along a small part of it today! Asha was a champ as it was quite hilly.
We picked up some groceries for dinner on our ride home. We invited our friends come to the RV for the dinner and we talked about our lives, work, politics, and everything in between. We had such a great time and feel our meeting could not have come at a better time. Today was a perfect day.
Day 7 Split City tour
Split is the 2nd largest city in Croatia and is located the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea on the Dalmatia coast. We rode in yesterday but didn't have enough time to both explore and make it home by nightfall so we returned today (by bus). We were amazed by what we learned during our Free Spirit tour about this amazing place founded by the Croats in the 6th century. We took a tour of the Diocletian Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which opened up the world of Croatia history to us! We learned that this walled city made up by the Palace was built in 305 AD as a retirement home for the Roman emperor Diocletian, and then years later became a home base for refugees coming into Split from the conquered settlement of Salona in the 7th century. People have lived in this palace since the 7th century and still do today! We saw the amazing Roman and Venetian influences in it’s palace columns, arches and windows. There are preserved apartments that family still use as their residences.
Asha also got to tap the toe of Gregory of Nin (Grgur Ninski in Croatian) who was a medieval bishop who introduced the Croatian language to the Church in 926 for the first time. This was a departure from the traditional Latin stemming from Roman rule and led to the spread of Christianity in Croatia and legitimization of Croatian language and culture during that time. Locals believe this brings good luck!
During our tour, we passed through the emperor’s quarters, a round tower open to the sky, with perfect acoustics. We were treated to the traditional Croatian music sung acapella by Croatian trained singers, called Klapa singing, that is also a protected UNESCO protected tradition. It's definitely worth a YouTube search to see and hear this moving music.
We also learned during our tour that Split was one of cities used for the filming of Game of Thrones! The Diocletian Palace subterranean chambers were featured as the holding cells for Daenerys’ dragon chambers. We checked out the chambers which now hold souvenir kiosks. There were a few GoT paraphernalia gift shops that were fun to check out.
We thoroughly enjoyed our day in this amazing city with unique history and it’s ancient ruins just blocks away from the modern harbor hosting cafes and today, a festival to build support for the transfer of currencies from kona to the euro which will happen in January. We exited the Diocletian Palace entranced with Split’s impressive history and stumbled out to this festival which was playing Ferrell’s “Happy”!
Day 8 Split to Ston to Dubrovnik
Today we left our favorite camp site, Camp Split in route to Dubrovnik. We had a nice leisurely departure, and were on our way. The coastline along the Adriatic never gets old. The blue emerald waters were mesmerizing as we plotted along the almost 4 hour trip. We passed through the village of Ston along the Peljesac Peninsula outside of Dubrovnik. From the road we saw an impressive fort and defensive walls climbing up the mountains in the background and we had to stop. We learned that Ston was an important military fort for Dubrovnik and the walls were constructed in 1358. The stone walls encircle the area for 3 miles-they were originally 4.5 miles long. You can even walk along the walls.
We toured the town briefly and were on our way. About an hour later, we arrived our camp site, made some dinner and watched our new favorite show, Baking Impossible.
Day 9 Dubrovnik
We continue south along the Dalmatian coast to our last destination in Croatia, Dubrovnik. We’ve heard from friends and other travelers that this city is not to be missed and they were right! We did the Free Spirit tour and were amazed with the history of the city, it’s city wall and layout. Each town reveals a new part of Croatian history that is fascinating. We were unaware the Dubrovnik was its own independent republic from the 14th-19th century. It’s been under the rule of the Romans, Venetians, then had a somewhat collaborative and sometimes conflicted, relationship with the Ottoman Empire, and then Austro-Hungarians. Napoleon and the French also ruled here for about 10 years! Croatia’s resilience throughout its history, including following the war in Yugoslavia, is remarkable to say the very least.
The old city itself is stunning, surrounded by an impressive city wall, and lined with narrow walkways and modern cafes and restaurants. The city was busier than we were expecting with other tourists coming off cruise ships from both the Adriatic and Mediterranean.
We took a much needed break after our morning tour and had a delicious lunch of Indian food to celebrate Diwali at a local restaurant. We’ve been missing our family during this holiday and this delicious food lifted our spirits.
In the afternoon, I indulged and took a Game of Thrones tour for a little fun and humor. The tour included visits to all the parts of Dubrovnik were the series was filmed from season 2 through 8. The tour guide was an extra in the series for various seasons. It was really fun to see all the backdrops used for the Red Keep, Kings Landing, and Blackwater Bay and "shame" steps (above). Dubrovnik has become an international filming destination for its stunning backdrops and affordability.
We are grateful we have seen and learned so much in beautiful Croatia and we only scratched the surface. We'll have to return to visit some of the islands that locals suggested - Hvar, Brac, and Bol. We left Dubrovnik and started our 13 hour drive to Greece. This evening we passed through Bosnia to Montenegro where we’re staying for the night. Tomorrow we pass through Albania and hopefully reach Vikos Gorge in Greece by late afternoon. Hvala vam, Croatia!
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